Sky’s the Limit
CALI ROADTRIP – PART 5
8am Wednesday: Woke up early, headed straight to the Brewery to pull my paintings down and packed the car. Had lunch at a tasty spot in downtown LA, with my brother, then said farewell and began traveling north.
5pm: Made it to Big Sur. The highway along the ocean is gorgeous – every time I look, it makes me forget how long I’ve been driving. Once in a while we stop to get out, get snacks, or coffee, but we are focused on making good time. Even the numerous “road closed ahead” signs don’t deter us…
5:15pm: There’s a guy in the middle of the street, holding a stop sign. The road IS closed, dang it! Construction is blocking the way ahead of us, they JUST let a bunch of cars through, and it’s going to be an hour before they are able to let anyone else pass. We decide to stretch our legs for a while, since we happen to be held up at one of the most stunning viewpoints along the entire California coast.
9pm: Approaching San Francisco (finally!!!) we discussed checking out a restaurant or a bar, but we’re way too tired. Planning to sleep in the car for a while, then get moving again. But looky here – got a text from my buddy Dutch, inviting us to crash overnight in his guest room. He warns us that it’s in a rough neighborhood, and we should be careful. Sweet.
10:30pm: Made it to Dutch’s house. The only thing “rough” about this neighborhood is the gravel road we drove in on… Becky Jean went straight to bed, while Dutch and I had a glass of wine and got caught up.
7am Thursday: Woke up next to the sleeping beauty in the guest room, to the realization that this place is flipping FABULOUS! Thinking about jumping on all the nice beds while he’s out dropping the kids off at school. Surely that will help energize us for the next 12 hour drive…
Dutch came back and made us the tastiest protein smoothies ever. He added a couple scoops of something so chalk-full of nutrients, he promised these smoothies will “shoot ya right out of a cannon.” Just what we need! (I’m still pretty bummed about my lost dog… so I’ll take any help I can get to make the drive home faster.)
“I know you two want to get back as soon as possible,” said Dutch, “That’s too bad, because I would have loved taking you two for a spin in my airplane.”
SERIOUSLY?!?!
“Heck yes we want to do it!” Said I, without missing a beat.
Becky Jean could simply not believe her ears… ”No way, I don’t think so -”
“Yes! Yes! Yes of course we can! Can we do it Becky Jean? Can we do it pleeeeeease?!” I begged, jumping up and down a little. (What dog?)
She was in.
The flight was thrilling – the scenery, breathtaking, and Becky Jean & I were completely beside ourselves, in awe of our new Superman.
When it was over, we said good-bye to Dutch, and giddy as schoolgirls, we got started on the last long leg of our drive.
Check This Out – You’re Welcome.
CALI ROADTRIP – PART 4
11am Monday: Went to breakfast at the Blu Jam. Did a little shopping after that, a little too much shopping apparently, because there was a $58 parking ticket on my car when we got back to it. Oh joy.
2:30pm: On our way to Universal Studios for a special tour! Our host, Paul Falcone (VP of human resources at NBC) reminisced with us about his early days with the company, when he used to be one of the guides. From his large corner office we gazed out the window, across the expansive property. We followed him to where a small herd of golf carts were parked, and hopped in for a ride.
Every time we got to something cool, he’d introduce it – and before we even had a chance to say, “Wow!” He’d say, “You’re welcome.” It cracked me up! Something about that guy was infectious because I feel like he’s rubbed off on us… We had a blast.
4:15pm: Stopped at the liquor store… There was a small hispanic guy inside, just another customer, probably in his late 60′s. For some reason he thought I was special. As I got back in the car with Becky Jean, he noticed where we were parked and came over to chat, leaning in the driver-side window.
“Lets go,” said Becky Jean, totally weirded out. I was still being polite, semi-entertained by the ol’ geezer. We had a bit of a language barrier, but it was clear he wanted to make friends.
“You like to party?” He asked.
“Of course we like to party.” I said. (Duh.) But something told me his idea of partying was a little different than mine…when he pulled a bag of cocaine out of his pocked and tried handing it to us!
“Lets get out of here,” Becky Jean said, with more urgency.
“No thanks,” I said. We got on our way.
5pm: In Burbank now, waiting in line to see Jimmy Kimmel Live! The studio producer is a hot guy named Link, with muscles bulging in a tight t-shirt. He placed us in the second row of the audience, then later, right behind Kimmel for the end of the show, when he 
hypes the CD for the band. They wanted us to look like we were having the time of our lives for the entire duration of the segment. My face hurt from smiling so hard.
9pm: Becky Jean and I met up with Kenzel and B-Star for tacos. After dinner, B-Star came and sat in my car for a few minutes. It didn’t last long, because it was my first chance to give him a piece of my mind about what happened Friday… and he didn’t exactly take it well.
I ended up kicking him out of the car.
B-Star wasn’t ready to throw in the towel yet, but I wasn’t about to let him join us where we were staying, either. So once we were back at the apartment, he came and sat with Becky Jean for a while, outside by my car. After continuous disrespect from him, I lost my temper. I let him know exactly how I felt; that he was acting psychotic, obsessive and that my friend deserves better. In turn, he flipped the script on Becky Jean, demanding that she acknowledge/explain her statements (supposedly made a few days ago) that she might never hang out with me again after this trip. He was trying to drive a wedge between us! Interesting.
Becky Jean assured me that she said those things on our first night together, when she was uneasy with my free style of traveling. My philosophy, that most strangers are friends who we haven’t met yet, perhaps hadn’t been entirely unveiled. She didn’t like that I hadn’t arranged for us a place to stay in SF – she feared the thought of meeting someone new who might have a spare couch or two.
8:12am Tuesday: Got a call from home to tell me my dog, Peaches, is missing. They said my Dad let the dog out in the middle of the night, and she never came back. Is it really so hard to take care of a dog for a week?! I was afraid of this… Tried to find a friend she could have stayed with while I’m away, to no avail.
Such a bummer.
Plus, I’m still reeling a bit from the situation last night. We have a full day planned, but can’t help but wish I was on my way home, to look for Peaches.
Noon-6pm: Becky Jean’s photo shoot was a wild success. She worked it, out on location at the beach, then came back to the studio for more. The pictures are amazing… She’s a natural.
7pm: Met up with Georgina at Brick & Mortar in Santa Monica. Kenzel came. So did Nate Hassler! We were running low on steam, so we only stayed for a couple hours. Then it was back to West Hollywood for our last night at Pancho’s place.
The Good, the Bad & the Ugly
CALI ROADTRIP – PART 2
7am Thursday: Woke up in the car, both under one sleeping bag, stretched across the front seats. Our precious parking spot was going to become a dreaded no-parking spot at 8am, so we got moving right away. We needed to find a FedEx, a place to get cleaned up, and some espresso. Becky Jean put her handy smart phone to work…
Sent my Audreality package to the Unscripted Development Pipeline. Parked near a very Portland-esque coffee shop, where we found our new friend, a beautiful, solid glass elephant made in Italy, in a pile of what Becky Jean called “broken treasures” just laying there on the sidewalk (!!!) by my car. She is one of us now; we named her Elly. Together, we grabbed ourselves some espresso, and got back on the highway.
For lunch, we had authentic Mexican food in the small desert town of Paso Robels. Another traveler was wandering by as we got back to the car. He wanted to know where he could get some cheap eats. And he happened to be from Portland! We gave him some snack bars and a couple tangerines, then piled in for the next long segment of our drive.
6:30pm: Arrived in LA, went straight to the Brewery (a huge artist compound) to unload the paintings, then on to my friend Pancho’s. From his place, we walked to Stella, an upscale french cafe and split a few small plates: three meatballs, a bowl of lentils and half an artichoke. We returned to Pancho’s, where Becky Jean slept on the couch, and me, on the living room floor.
9am Friday: Pancho made us coffee and breakfast. We ate with him and his son James, before they took off to see a movie. We had our own mission: back to the Brewery for a brief “signing ceremony” because I had never gotten around to signing most of my paintings. My older half-brother, Jeffrey, met us there, so we followed him to his place to hang out for a while. After that, it was decided that we would spend the evening with Becky’s boyfriend (B-Star) and his gracious host/friend, in Venice Beach.
Yes, I said it. When B-Star heard Becky Jean was going on this road trip, he made it a point to be here too. (more…)
BLASTOFF
In less than 24 hours, Becky Jean and I pile into my little car and roll south. Thanks to no shortage of miraculous events and some concentrated steering power, I’ve gathered the items from my ultimate wish list (macbook pro, video camera and gas money) necessary to make the next chapter of Audreality a go.
Follow us as we explore the California coast, then stay tuned to see the art show, where most of my paintings will be seen for the first time outside of Portland. It takes place at the Brewery, one of the world’s largest and most popular artist co-ops. Twice a year they open their doors to the public, and next weekend is the Spring edition, featuring the works of Yours Truly.
Our plan is only loosely bound. If you’ve got tips, suggestions or ideas about places, people and events we should see, please let us know. We look forward to surprises along the way…
In the LA area? Join us March 31 & April 1st for the celebration!
Island Hoppin’ a la Galápagos
We packed up and left our beloved Montañita in a speeding van, with D and Lady at the helm. She looked at him for reassurance as we flew at warp speed along the newly paved highway.
Apparently, this drive used to take a lot longer. Before we knew it, we were pulling into the most chaotic traffic any of us gringos had ever seen. There were fires along side the road, people shouting, lots of honking, people darting into traffic left and right. We had heard Guayaquil was dangerous, but this was like Wild Animal Kingdom, in the city.
Never pausing long enough to risk a car-jacking, D cursed in Spanish, one hand on the horn at all times. The boys and I exchanged nervous glances.
The plan was: chose a nice hotel as close as possible to the airport, then check in and stay there until it was time to fly out in the morning. We were under strict advice not to go out in Guayaquil.
Our hotel, one of the best around, was one of the most highly secure places I’ve ever been. It was like visiting the Pentagon! Cameras from all angles and the speedy elevators would go (after a room-key swipe) to our floor only. Figuring out how to get to Thacher and Andrew’s room (on a different level) was like a scene from Mission Impossible.
The next morning, we were driven to the airport in a van supplied by the travel agency who booked our Galapagos trip. Everything went smoothly until we arrived at the Galapagos airport (600 miles west of the west coast of Ecuador, along the Equator), when we realized it costs 100 dollars, cash, just to get through the airport. Between the four of us, there was only just over 300 dollars. Since there’s no ATM at the endearingly open-air Galapagos airport, I was instructed to leave my passport with security and bring the cash to retrieve it on my way back to the mainland, five days later. (Which wasn’t easy!)
Inconvenience quickly forgotten, I was already ogling the multitude of life forms lounging on the docks where we waited in groups of 8 for a little dingy to shuttle us to the Eden.
That was her name, Eden, a 16-passenger cruise ship was our new home, island hopping around the Galapagos.
Here’s a video I’ve put together from the first half of our Galapagos adventure…
Eating in Ecuador
Huge fan of animals, ever-intrigued by their unique personalities and likeness to humans, I was thrilled to explore the Galapagos. Crawling with lizards, beaches blanketed in sea lions and surrounded on all sides with rich seas of shark, turtles and fish, these islands are teeming with life. It’s no wonder that Ecuador is the most bio-diverse country in the world.
It’s the perfect place to learn about what’s at stake in the wake of global climate destabilization and developments of the Green Revolution, an unstoppable freight train of globalization, driven by profit-hungry multi-nationals, which carries us along our high-risk path.
Thanks to CouchSurfing where I met Wlady Ortiz, the last leg of our trip included a series of exhilarating eco-adventures. His business, Ecuador Eco Adventure is built on raising awareness about local economic and environmental issues, often using solution models that are valuable world-wide, supporting environmental causes and cooperative communities.
He was eager to get us off the beaten tourist path, to guide us through the indigenous parts of Ecuador, in order to get the fullest experience possible. Filming the entire time, I felt inspired to highlight traditional cuisine along the way.
The first days with Wlady were all about food. From the Quito airport to Riobamba (where he’s located) the drive was only a few hours. On the way, Wlady took us through a town called Latacunga, famous in Ecuador for it’s Chugchucara. We stopped at a breath-taking building, cavernous and dark with lots of intricately carved banisters and railings. What, from the outside wasn’t more than a giant, ambiguous steel door, inside was like the setting of a dramatic vampire story.
I filmed a tour… My favorite part was the mouth-shaped fireplace, with enormous fangs. The bull-fighting room, narrow and complete with a severed bull’s head hanging on the wall at one end of a long table, made me a little uncomfortable.
Chugchucara is a dish you can only find in Latacunga. It’s a salty roasted pork, fairly dry and packed with flavor. It made me feel a little like a caveman (cavewoman?) eating with my hands, ripping the flesh with my teeth. But it was delicious! Also on the plate: mouth watering fried plantains (a staple in Ecuador), popcorn and some potatoes. As an appetizer we enjoyed steamed (?) corn kernels with pork crumbles on top.
After dinner, we headed to Wlady’s, where we slept for the night. In the morning, we continued…
The market in Riobamba was our first stop. There was a big room with tables and benches in the middle. Around the perimeter, there were about a dozen little stations, each run by one or two women, each with a large, slow-roasted pig on display. Wlady explained, the roasting process begins at 3am every day.
Competing for customers, the women were eager to give us samples. I have never had so much pork for breakfast!
We also had salt-juice. Across from the market, we found the place to get it. Made with two fried eggs stirred in, the salt-juice is basically a glass of gravy with a hint of cilantro. Murky and brown, it’s a LOT tastier than it looks.
Next, we headed to a nearby cevicheria, Ceviche de Chochos Dona Mary, where we dined on some fabulous soup. Then it was on to Picantaria Anita for a real foodie adventure…
There was lamb intestine soup, sprinkled with dried cow’s blood and topped with fresh avocado. In another bowl, another soup, featuring a large cow foot. The third dish was pig ears.
Not yet complete, our food exploration continued to a place called Palitahua at the base of a gorgeous volcano, Tungurahua, where we met a charming farmer, delighted to teach us about the traditional Ecuadorian feast of guinea pig.
He gave us a tour of his wonderful farm, where he pulled up the most ginormous carrot we had ever seen. It would be part of our vegetable soup. While the guinea pig cooked in the fire-oven, we followed the farmer outside, where we found his robust collection of cows, chickens, bunnies and guinea pigs. He must have had at least a hundred animals. They were beautiful.
Back in the dining room, the farmer’s daughter served our meal. The guinea pig was quartered – Wlady got the head. I watched (and filmed) with amazement as he dug out the brain with the handle of a spoon, and ate it. I wasn’t happy about eating the guinea pig after just meeting it’s cousins out back, but I had to try it. To wash everything down, luscious raspberry juice, fresh from the garden.
Adventure in Ecuador ~ Part 1 of 5
Just got a note from one of my favorite people from the Ecuador trip. He was magnetic. Quiet, modest and pleasant (especially for being such a fine specimen of a human being), I liked him right away.
He mentioned being sorry we didn’t have more time together.
I replied…
“Time – yes there never seems to be enough when things are good. And with you it was great! All over Ecuador, it was amazing. But I don’t worry those moments were too short or too few, because they were just a beginning… and for that I’m filled only with gratitude.”
Ecuador swept me off my feet. Over and over I fell in love, with people, the places, the communities of welcoming faces. Every experience taught me more about who I am; who I want to be.
There was no way to anticipate what happened, so I did little to plan. Before I knew it, three of us were on a 6am plane to Ecuador. Landing briefly to make connecting flights in Texas and Panama, we arrived in Quito around 11pm.
The airport waiting area, where passengers were met by friends and family, was filled with colors. My eyes and ears, stimulated by the array of brightness and sound, popped open, suddenly awake.
Francisco and one of his sons, Jose, picked us up from the airport. It was their family, who’s land we would highlight in the documentary. This gorgeous piece of property towards the north end of the country belonged to the first president of Ecuador. Over time, it’s been chipped away at, into profitable pieces, but the remaining vast expanse of rolling green countryside was passed down through the family.
We also spent some time in Quito. On the first night, we were joined by a good friend of the family, Anna Maria. We badly wanted to go dancing – especially Rene – so we went to a club called La Juliana, where we got to scratch the itch.
It took a while to fill up, but once it did, there were plenty of people shakin’ it on the dance floor. Rene had a great thing going with a couple lovely local ladies. They were fantastic dancers – Rene was in heaven.
The hottest guy around (also one of the few taller than me) decided he would teach me to salsa. When he noticed my abs, he mentioned that he was Mr. Ecuador three years in a row! We had a such a blast dancing, he asked me to marry him.
In Quito, Mariscal is the neighborhood to be in. There is the concentrated center of nightlife. On Sunday, when the whole city fell quiet, apparently due to a recent banning of alcohol sales on Sundays, the party played on in the Mariscal main square, where a protest took place.
Finding the event on my first solo excursion of the trip, I was thoroughly amused. It wasn’t far from our hotel, where the boys were napping, plus we had spent plenty of time crisscrossing the neighborhood on foot, so I knew the way. And daylight would last at least another hour. That’s why, against common advice, I ventured alone.
Around the perimeter of the square, metal trashcans were attached to short poles with metal rain-guards on top. Where I perched, there was just a rain-guard, no can. It was a seat with the most perfect view possible of the protest and surrounding scene. I still had no idea what it was about. But everyone, oddly enough, seemed happy.
A man approached. He was tall and handsome with dark hair and thin, wire-rimmed glasses. I saw him coming.
“Hola,” I said.
Responding in Spanish, he said something completely incomprehensible.
“No hablez Espangol,” I said, laughing. “Do you speak English?”
He did! His name was Gustav. I asked what the excitement was about. With closer inspection, we learned they were protesting the recent ban of alcohol on Sundays.
Noting what day it was, seeing that many places weren’t even open, we found a spot to have some sparkling mineral water and coffee, to observe.
An Argentinian, traveling alone on vacation, Gustav ended up staying with me until well into the night. We talked for a while, then he joined my friends and I for dinner at the square. He walked us back to the hotel and when the boys when inside, we sat out front together for hours.
“Am I ever going to see you again?” I asked.
“I don’t know.” It was our last night in Quito. We said goodbye.
The next morning, our fourth wheel arrived. Andrew! Our gang complete, Thacher, Rene, Andrew and I headed for the coast on what was about to be the longest bus ride EVER!
Somewhere along the fifth or sixth hour, we stopped at a gas station for a bathroom break. Not having to pee, but eager to get off the bus, I hopped off and went to wash my hands. Then, there in the sink, I found the coolest ring!
Solid plastic, it’s clear with a pink tint. Suspended inside, there’s a pink rose blossom and a tiny gold chain. It couldn’t be more perfect for me. My middle name is Rose! And my last name is Goldfarb! How neat!
Excited about my new treasure, to no one in particular I exclaimed, “Awesome ring… Wow, totally fits me!”
Much to my surprise, someone responded. And it was in English! The woman was standing next to me, with an adorable 2-year-old boy on her hip who had a great head of curls. They were also riding our bus.
The mother’s name was Josie. Within a few minutes, we were making on plans to travel along the Ecuador coast together. By the time we got off the bus in Manta, we decided to stick with Josie and her family for as long as possible.
Originally from Ecuador, but currently living in Texas, Josie knows how things work in her home country, especially when it comes to getting a deal. No matter where we went, she had our prices significantly reduced. The next day, we shared a van with her family, going south along the beach from Manta to Montañita, stopping anywhere we felt the need to eat or stretch our legs on the way.
Coming soon: Details about magical Montañita, exploring the Galápagos Islands and Eco Tourism in Ecuador!
1 comment